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Crocheting a tote bag is a fantastic project for anyone starting out with wearables and accessories. This tutorial is designed to be quick, easy, and beginner-friendly, using simple stitches to create a sturdy and functional bag. You'll create a classic, roomy tote that's perfect for carrying groceries, books, or your latest crochet project!
Skill Level: Beginner
This project is a great choice if you're comfortable with:
Chain (ch): The foundation of crochet.
Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining stitches and rounds neatly.
Single Crochet (sc): A dense, sturdy stitch, ideal for bag construction.
Working in Rounds: Crocheting in continuous or joined circles to create a seamless look.
Increasing: Making your work wider for the bag's base.
Fastening Off: Securely ending your yarn.
Weaving in Ends: The crucial final step for a polished and durable bag.
Finished Tote Bag Dimensions (Approximate):
Using worsted weight yarn (Medium #4) and the suggested hook, your finished tote bag will typically be:
Base: 12 inches (30 cm) long by 4 inches (10 cm) wide (oval shape).
Height: 12-14 inches (30-35 cm) (excluding handles).
Handles: 20-24 inches (50-60 cm) tall loop (from bag edge to top of handle).
These dimensions are easy to adjust! Want a bigger bag? Start with a longer chain for the base. Taller? Add more rounds to the body.
Materials You'll Need:
Gathering your supplies beforehand ensures a smooth and enjoyable crafting session!
Yarn: Approximately 300-400 yards (275-365 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or a Sturdy Cotton Blend.
Why Cotton? Cotton yarn is highly recommended for bags because it's strong, durable, holds its shape well, and has minimal stretch. This is crucial for a tote bag that will hold heavy items.
Color: Choose a single color for a classic, clean look or a few complementary colors for a striped effect.
Crochet Hook: Size I/5.5mm. This hook size works well with worsted weight yarn to create a dense, firm fabric that will allow your bag to stand up nicely on its own.
Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): This blunt-tipped needle with a large eye is essential for seamlessly weaving in all your loose yarn tails at the end of the project.
Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting your yarn.
Stitch Marker (Optional but Recommended): Incredibly helpful for marking the first stitch of each round when working the base and body in a continuous spiral.
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Let's Crochet Your Easy Tote Bag!
We'll build this bag from the bottom up: starting with a simple oval base, then working straight up for the bag's body, and finishing with two sturdy handles. We'll use single crochet throughout for maximum quickness and durability.
Part 1: The Oval Base
The key to a good tote bag is a flat, sturdy oval that forms the bottom. This is done by working single crochet stitches around a starting chain in continuous rounds, which helps avoid a visible seam and gives the bag structure.
Starting Chain:
Make a slip knot with your yarn.
Chain (ch) 26. (This chain length determines the initial length of your bag's base. Adjust this number if you want a wider or narrower bag.)
Round 1 (Working Around the Chain):
Work 2 single crochet (sc) stitches into the 2nd chain from your hook.
(Optional: Place your stitch marker in the first sc you just made.)
Work 1 sc into each of the next 23 chains.
In the last chain (the 26th chain from your hook): Work 4 sc stitches into this single chain. This helps you smoothly turn the corner around the end of your chain.
Now, you'll work back down the other side of your starting chain. Crochet into the bottom loops (the unworked loops) of each chain.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 23 stitches.
In the last stitch (the same chain where you placed your very first 2 sc): Work 2 sc stitches into this chain. This finishes turning the other corner.
You should now have a total of 54 sc stitches. Important: Do NOT join with a slip stitch yet. For the base, you'll work in continuous rounds (like a spiral) to avoid a visible seam.
Round 2 (Continuing the Oval Shape):
Work 2 sc into the very first stitch of the round (the one with your stitch marker).
Work 1 sc into the next stitch.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 23 stitches.
Work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches. (These are the increases on one of the rounded ends).
Work 1 sc into the next stitch.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 23 stitches.
Work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches. (These are the increases on the other rounded end).
You should now have 60 sc stitches.
Round 3 (Final Base Round):
Work 2 sc into the first stitch.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 24 stitches.
Work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 24 stitches.
Work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches.
You should now have 66 sc stitches.
Stop here! When you finish the last sc of this round, slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of this round to join. This completes your oval base neatly and prepares you for working straight up the sides of the bag.
Part 2: Building the Body of the Tote Bag
Now, you'll work straight up from the finished base to create the main walls of your bag. We'll use single crochet throughout and work in joined rounds to maintain a neat, vertical line.
Round 4 (First Side Round - Defining the Edge):
Chain 1 (ch 1 – this does NOT count as a stitch).
Work 1 single crochet (sc) into the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch around the entire round. (66 sc)
Why BLO? Working into the back loop creates a distinct, visible ridge on the outside of the bag, right where the base transitions to the sides. This ridge helps the bag's sides stand up straight and gives it a crisp, defined bottom.
Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
Rounds Onwards (Body Height):
Chain 1 (ch 1 – this does NOT count as a stitch).
Work 1 sc into both loops of each stitch around the round. (Your stitch count remains the same: 66 sc).
Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
Repeat this round (working 1 sc in each stitch around and joining with a sl st) until your tote bag reaches your desired height. For the approximate dimensions given, you'll want to do about 20-25 more rounds (for a total of 24-29 rounds for the body, including Round 4).
The height is entirely a personal preference. Hold it up as you go and see if you like the look and feel. The single crochet creates a dense and sturdy fabric, perfect for a bag.
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Part 3: Creating the Handles
Now you'll create comfortable, integrated handles that extend directly from the top of your bag. We'll continue using single crochet for consistency and durability.
Handle Placement Round (Setting up the openings):
After your last body round, make sure you've joined with a slip stitch.
Chain 1 (ch 1 – does NOT count as a stitch).
Work 1 sc into the first 10 stitches. (This creates the front section of the bag opening).
Chain 40 (ch 40 – this creates the length of your first handle. Adjust this number for a longer or shorter handle).
Skip the next 13 stitches on the bag's top edge (this creates the open space for the bag's main opening).
Work 1 sc into the next 20 stitches. (This section bridges the gap across the top of the bag between your two handles).
Chain 40 (ch 40 – this creates the length of your second handle, matching the first).
Skip the next 13 stitches.
Work 1 sc into the next 10 stitches. (This should bring you back to the start of the round).
Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
Handle Strengthening Round:
Chain 1 (ch 1 – does NOT count as a stitch).
Work 1 sc into each sc stitch along the top edge of the bag (these are the 10 sc, 20 sc, and 10 sc sections).
When you reach a chain-handle loop, you'll work single crochets directly into each chain of the loop. Work 1 sc into each of the 40 chains of the loop. This creates a very sturdy and comfortable handle.
Continue working sc stitches into the bag top and then around the second chain-40 handle loop (40 sc into those chains).
Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
Fasten Off (FO), leaving a tail of about 6 inches (15 cm).
Part 4: Final Finishing Touches (The Secret to a Professional Look!)
This stage is crucial for making your bag look polished, clean, and truly finished.
Weave in All Ends (Meticulously!):
You'll have yarn tails from your starting chain on the base, and one from where you fastened off at the handles.
Thread each yarn tail onto your yarn needle.
How to Weave Neatly: Insert the needle into existing stitches on the inside of your bag. Weave the tail into existing stitches for at least 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm). To make it extra secure and prevent unraveling, subtly change direction (e.g., weave along a stitch, then turn and weave back through some of the same stitches diagonally or perpendicularly) to "lock" the tail in place.
Once secured, trim any excess yarn close to the fabric, being careful not to cut any of your actual crocheted stitches.
Blocking (Optional but Recommended):
Blocking is a simple process that can significantly improve the shape of your bag, even out any minor tension inconsistencies, and give it a more polished, professional appearance. It helps the bag stand up nicely on its own.
Method for Cotton Yarn:
Gently mist the entire bag evenly with cool water using a spray bottle until it's damp, but not soaking wet.
Stuff the bag lightly with clean towels, old T-shirts, or even plastic bags to help it hold its intended rectangular shape.
Allow the bag to air dry completely and thoroughly in a well-ventilated area. This might take a day or two, depending on humidity. Do not move or use the bag until it's bone dry.
Congratulations! You've successfully crocheted an easy and sturdy tote bag! This is a fantastic accomplishment, and you now have a sturdy, handmade accessory that's both functional and stylish.
What will be the first thing you carry in your new tote?
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