Creating a "coaster supla" in a square style offers a modern and clean look for your table decor. It's a versatile mat, larger than a typical coaster but smaller than a placemat (perfect for small planters, candles, or under a serving bowl). This tutorial will guide you through crocheting a sturdy and eye-catching square-shaped mat, building outwards from the center.
How To Crochet a Coaster Supla (Square Style)
This pattern creates a dense, flat square using half double crochet (hdc) for a sturdy fabric, with well-defined corners and a clean finish.
Skill Level: Advanced Beginner
You should be comfortable with:
- Basic crochet stitches (ch, sl st, hdc, sc).
- Working in the round.
- Understanding and executing corner increases for square shaping.
- Making neat stitch joins.
Finished Square Coaster Supla Dimensions (Approximate):
- Size: 7-8 inches (18-20 cm) square
Materials You'll Need:
- Yarn:
- Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton Yarn: Approximately 80-120 yards (73-110 meters).
- Why cotton? Cotton is durable, absorbent, heat-resistant, and holds its shape exceptionally well, making it ideal for a table mat. Choose a solid color to highlight the square's clean lines, or use multiple colors for a striped or color-block effect (see customization).
- Crochet Hook:
- Size H/5.0mm (or the hook size that gives you a firm, dense fabric that lies perfectly flat. Gauge is crucial here).
- Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for weaving in loose ends.
- Scissors
- Stitch Markers (Optional but Recommended): Very helpful for marking the corner chain spaces in each round.
Gauge (Crucial for Flatness and Size!):
Maintaining a consistent gauge is vital to ensure your coaster supla lies perfectly flat without ruffling or cupping.
- After Round 4, your square should measure approximately 4 inches (10 cm) from side to side.
- If your square is smaller, try a larger hook. If it's larger, try a smaller hook.
Abbreviations Used:
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- st(s): stitch(es)
- ch-sp: chain space
- MR: Magic Ring (also known as Magic Circle or Adjustable Ring)
- FO: fasten off
Understanding Square Coaster Supla Construction:
This square coaster supla is worked in joined rounds from the center outwards. Each round will increase its size by adding stitches along the sides and specifically in the four corner chain spaces. The key to a flat square is consistently making 2 stitches, a chain 2, then 2 more stitches (or 3 sts, ch 2, 3 sts) into each corner space in every round. We'll use (hdc, ch2, hdc) for corners for a denser fabric.
Let's Start Crocheting Your Square Coaster Supla!
Part 1: Starting the Square Base
Option A: Magic Ring (Recommended for a tighter center)
- Make a Magic Ring (MR).
- Round 1: Ch 2 (does NOT count as a stitch). Work (2 hdc, ch 2) 4 times into the MR. Pull the tail tight to close the ring. Sl st to the top of the first hdc to join. (Total: 8 hdc and 4 ch-2 corner sps).
- Place a stitch marker in each ch-2 sp to easily identify your corners.
Option B: Chain 4 Method (Alternative)
- Ch 4, sl st into the 1st ch to form a ring.
- Round 1: Ch 2 (does NOT count as a stitch). Work (2 hdc, ch 2) 4 times into the ring. Sl st to the top of the first hdc to join. (Total: 8 hdc and 4 ch-2 corner sps).
- Place a stitch marker in each ch-2 sp to easily identify your corners.
Part 2: Building the Square Body (Hdc Rounds)
We will continue working in joined rounds. The general pattern for each side will be hdc
into every hdc
from the previous round, and in the corners, you will always work (hdc, ch 2, hdc)
into the corner chain space.
-
Round 2:
- Sl st into the first ch-2 corner sp.
- Ch 2 (does NOT count as a stitch). Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the same ch-2 sp. (This is your first corner).
- Hdc in each of the next 2 hdc along the side.
- (Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the next ch-2 corner sp. Hdc in each of the next 2 hdc along the side). Repeat from * to * 3 more times.
- Sl st to the top of the initial hdc to join. (Total: 16 hdc and 4 ch-2 corner sps).
- Move your stitch markers up to the new ch-2 sps.
-
Round 3:
- Sl st into the first ch-2 corner sp.
- Ch 2. Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the same ch-2 sp.
- Hdc in each of the next 4 hdc along the side.
- (Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the next ch-2 corner sp. Hdc in each of the next 4 hdc along the side). Repeat from * to * 3 more times.
- Sl st to the top of the initial hdc to join. (Total: 24 hdc and 4 ch-2 corner sps).
- Move your stitch markers up to the new ch-2 sps.
-
Round 4:
- Sl st into the first ch-2 corner sp.
- Ch 2. Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the same ch-2 sp.
- Hdc in each of the next 6 hdc along the side.
- (Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the next ch-2 corner sp. Hdc in each of the next 6 hdc along the side). Repeat from * to * 3 more times.
- Sl st to the top of the initial hdc to join. (Total: 32 hdc and 4 ch-2 corner sps).
- Your square should now be about 4 inches (10 cm) from side to side.
-
Round 5:
- Sl st into the first ch-2 corner sp.
- Ch 2. Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the same ch-2 sp.
- Hdc in each of the next 8 hdc along the side.
- (Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the next ch-2 corner sp. Hdc in each of the next 8 hdc along the side). Repeat from * to * 3 more times.
- Sl st to the top of the initial hdc to join. (Total: 40 hdc and 4 ch-2 corner sps).
-
Round 6:
- Sl st into the first ch-2 corner sp.
- Ch 2. Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the same ch-2 sp.
- Hdc in each of the next 10 hdc along the side.
- (Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the next ch-2 corner sp. Hdc in each of the next 10 hdc along the side). Repeat from * to * 3 more times.
- Sl st to the top of the initial hdc to join. (Total: 48 hdc and 4 ch-2 corner sps).
-
Round 7:
- Sl st into the first ch-2 corner sp.
- Ch 2. Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the same ch-2 sp.
- Hdc in each of the next 12 hdc along the side.
- (Work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into the next ch-2 corner sp. Hdc in each of the next 12 hdc along the side). Repeat from * to * 3 more times.
- Sl st to the top of the initial hdc to join. (Total: 56 hdc and 4 ch-2 corner sps).
- Your square should now be about 7-8 inches (18-20 cm) from side to side.
Part 3: Final Edge (Sc Round for Neatness)
This final round will give your coaster supla a very clean and firm edge.
- Round 8:
- Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch).
- Sc in each hdc along the side.
- In each ch-2 corner sp, work (sc, ch 1, sc). (This keeps the corner neat but doesn't add bulk like a ch 2).
- Continue working sc in each hdc along the sides and (sc, ch 1, sc) in each corner sp until you return to the start.
- Sl st to the first sc to join.
- FO, leaving a 6-inch tail.
Part 4: Finishing & Blocking (Crucial for Flatness!)
- Weave in All Ends: Thread the remaining yarn tail (and the starting tail from your MR) onto your yarn needle. Carefully weave it through several stitches on the back side of your coaster supla, securing it invisibly. This is crucial for a clean, professional appearance.
- Blocking: This is essential for a square coaster supla to lie perfectly flat and maintain its shape.
- Method: Gently wet your finished coaster supla (either by misting with water or a quick dip and gentle squeeze – do not wring). Lay it perfectly flat on a blocking mat or a clean, dry towel. Gently stretch and pin the square to its intended dimensions (e.g., 8x8 inches), making sure the sides are straight and the corners are sharp. Allow it to air dry completely.
Your beautiful and sturdy square-style crochet coaster supla is now complete! It's a modern and functional accent for any surface in your home.
Customization Ideas:
- Size: To make a larger or smaller supla, simply add or remove repeat rounds from Part 2.
- Colors: Change colors every 1-2 rounds, or every few rounds, to create a striped effect. Change colors at the very end of a round (on the last yarn over of the joining sl st).
- Texture: Experiment with different stitches like single crochet (for a very dense fabric), or double crochet (for a slightly more open fabric, but still sturdy if you use a smaller hook).
- Edging: Instead of a simple sc edge, you could try a picot border (ch 3, sl st into first ch for each picot) or a shell stitch border for a more decorative finish.
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