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Let's crochet a fantastic Square Bag! This project is perfect for beginners who want to move beyond flat pieces and create a functional, three-dimensional item. You'll learn to make a solid square base, build up the sides, and add comfortable handles. This versatile bag can be used for everyday essentials, as a lunch bag, or even a small project bag.
How to Crochet a Square Bag: A Detailed Tutorial for Beginners
This guide will walk you through each step of crocheting a sturdy and stylish square-shaped bag. We'll focus on simple stitches and techniques to ensure a smooth and successful project.
Skill Level: Beginner
This project is ideal if you're comfortable with (or ready to learn):
Chain (ch): The fundamental starting stitch.
Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining stitches and rounds neatly.
Single Crochet (sc): A short, dense, and very sturdy stitch, perfect for bags.
Half Double Crochet (hdc): A slightly taller stitch that helps the bag work up a bit faster.
Working in rounds: Crocheting in a circular or spiral fashion.
Working in the round to create a square: A key technique for the base.
Fastening off: Securing your yarn so your work doesn't unravel.
Weaving in ends: The essential final step for a clean, professional finish.
Finished Square Bag Dimensions (Approximate):
Using worsted weight yarn and the suggested hook, your finished square bag will typically be:
Base: 8-9 inches (20-23 cm) per side (a perfect square)
Height: 8-10 inches (20-25 cm) (excluding handles)
Handles: 8-10 inches (20-25 cm) tall loop
These dimensions are easily adjustable! Want a bigger bag? Start with more stitches for the base's starting chain. For a taller bag, simply add more rounds to the body.
Materials You'll Need:
Gathering your supplies beforehand ensures a smooth and enjoyable crocheting session!
Yarn: Approximately 350-450 yards (320-410 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or Cotton Blend Yarn.
Why Cotton? Cotton yarn is highly recommended for bags because it's strong, durable, and holds its shape well, even when you fill your bag with items. It's also less likely to stretch out over time compared to pure acrylic. Choose any color you love for your bag!
Crochet Hook: Size H/5.0mm. This hook size works well for worsted weight yarn, creating a fabric that's dense enough for a sturdy bag.
Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): This specialized needle has a blunt tip and a large eye, making it easy to thread yarn through. It's essential for seamlessly weaving in all your loose yarn tails at the end of the project.
Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting your yarn.
Stitch Markers (Highly Recommended!): You'll want at least 4 stitch markers to mark the corners of your square base. This is crucial for maintaining the square shape.
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Let's Crochet Your Square Bag!
We'll build this bag from the bottom up in three main stages: creating a flat square base, building the main body of the bag upwards, and finally adding sturdy, integrated handles.
Part 1: The Square Base
You'll begin by creating a flat, sturdy square shape that forms the bottom of your tote bag. This is achieved by working single crochet stitches around a starting chain, adding increases at the corners.
Starting Chain:
Make a slip knot with your yarn and place it onto your H/5.0mm crochet hook.
Chain (ch) 29. (This chain length determines the initial side length of your square. For a larger square, chain more stitches; for a smaller one, chain less. The number of chains needs to be an odd number so you have an even number of stitches on each side of the square for your corners.)
Round 1 (Foundation Round - Working Around the Chain):
Work 1 single crochet (sc) into the 2nd chain from your hook.
To make an
sc: Insert your hook into the designated chain, yarn over, pull up a loop (you'll have 2 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on your hook.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 26 chains.
In the last chain (the 29th chain from your hook): Work 3 sc into this single chain. (This forms your first corner.)
Place a stitch marker in the middle of these 3 sc stitches (i.e., the 2nd sc you just made into that last chain).
Now, you'll work back down the other side of your starting chain, crocheting into the bottom loops (the unworked loops) of each chain.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 26 stitches.
In the last stitch (this will be the same chain where you placed your very first sc): Work 2 sc stitches into this chain. (This finishes your second corner, along with the very first sc you made).
Place a stitch marker in the first of these 2 sc stitches (this will be the corner stitch).
Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join. This completes your first round.
You should now have 58 sc stitches. (27 + 3 + 27 + 1 = 58 if counting the first stitch with the corner increase. If you count stitches per side it's 27 on each long side and 2 corner increases on each end, totaling 58. It's easier to think of it as 27 stitches on one side, 3 for the corner, 27 for the next side, and 2 for the final corner.)
Round 2 (Expanding the Square):
Chain 1 (ch 1 – this does NOT count as a stitch).
Work 1 sc into each stitch until you reach your first stitch marker (which should be in a corner stitch).
In the stitch with the stitch marker (your corner stitch): Work 3 sc into this stitch.
Move your stitch marker to the middle of these 3 sc stitches.
Work 1 sc into each stitch until you reach the next stitch marker.
In the stitch with the stitch marker: Work 3 sc into this stitch.
Move your stitch marker to the middle of these 3 sc stitches.
Work 1 sc into each stitch until you reach the next stitch marker.
In the stitch with the stitch marker: Work 3 sc into this stitch.
Move your stitch marker to the middle of these 3 sc stitches.
Work 1 sc into each stitch until you reach the final stitch before your starting ch 1.
In the stitch with the stitch marker: Work 3 sc into this stitch.
Move your stitch marker to the middle of these 3 sc stitches.
Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
You should have increased your stitch count by 8 stitches (2 per corner).
Repeat Round 2 two or three more times, or until your base reaches the desired square size (approx. 8-9 inches per side). Remember to always work 3 sc in the marked corner stitches and move your stitch marker to the middle sc of those 3 stitches. This systematic increase at the corners will keep your base perfectly square.
For an 8-9 inch square base, you'll likely complete a total of 4-5 rounds for the base.
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Part 2: Building the Body of the Bag
Now, you'll work straight up from the finished square base to create the main walls of your tote bag. We'll use a single crochet for the first body round to define a crisp edge, then half double crochet for the rest of the body to make it work up a bit faster. You'll work in joined rounds to keep a neat, vertical seam.
Round (First Side Round - Defining the Edge):
Chain 1 (ch 1 – this does NOT count as a stitch; it just gives height).
Work 1 single crochet (sc) into the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch around the entire round. (Your stitch count will be the same as the last round of your base, e.g., if you did 4 rounds of base, you'll have 82 sc).
Why BLO? Working into the back loop creates a distinct, visible ridge on the outside of the bag. This ridge helps the bag's sides stand up straight from the base, giving it a crisp, defined corner, rather than a rounded bottom.
Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc to join the round.
Rounds Onwards (Body Height - using Half Double Crochet):
Chain 2 (ch 2 – this counts as your first half double crochet (hdc) of the round).
To make an
hdc: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Work 1 hdc into each stitch around the round. (Your stitch count remains the same as the previous round).
Slip stitch (sl st) into the top of the beginning ch 2 (the second chain of your starting chain-2) to join the round.
Repeat this round (working 1 hdc in each stitch around) until your bag reaches your desired height. For the approximate dimensions given, you'll want to do about 18-22 more rounds.
The height is entirely a personal preference. Hold it up as you go and see if you like the look and feel. The hdc stitch works up faster than sc, which is great for building the main body of the bag!
Part 3: Creating the Handles
Now you'll create sturdy, integrated handles that extend directly from the top of your bag. We'll use simple single crochet stitches for consistency and strength.
Prepare for Handles (Optional Marking):
To ensure your handles are evenly placed, fold your bag flat and find the center stitches on each side. Place stitch markers there. This will help you count out the stitches for the handle placement. For a bag with 82 stitches around (after 4 base rounds and 1 BLO round), you'll have about 20-21 stitches per side. You'll want to aim for roughly 6-8 stitches for the bag opening on each side of the handle, and 6-8 stitches for the handle attachment points. Adjust these numbers based on your total stitch count and preference.
Handle Placement Round:
After your last body round, make sure you've joined with a slip stitch.
Chain 1 (ch 1 – this does not count as a stitch).
Work single crochet (sc) stitches across the first side of your bag until you reach the desired starting point for your first handle. (E.g., for an 82-stitch round, you might sc 15 stitches).
Chain 40 (ch 40 – this creates the length of your first handle. You can easily adjust this number to make the handle longer for a shoulder bag or shorter for a hand-carry bag. More chains = longer handle).
Skip the next 11 stitches on the bag's top edge (this creates the open space for the bag's main opening).
Work sc stitches across the back side of your bag until you reach the desired starting point for your second handle. (E.g., sc 20 stitches).
Chain 40 (ch 40 – this creates the length of your second handle, matching the first).
Skip the next 11 stitches.
Work sc stitches to complete the round. (E.g., sc 5 stitches to reach the beginning of the round).
Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of this round to join.
Handle Strengthening Rounds (Make them sturdy!):
Chain 1.
Work 1 sc into each sc stitch along the top edge of the bag.
When you reach a chain-handle loop, you'll work single crochets directly into each chain of the loop. Work 1 sc into each of the 40 chains of the loop. This creates a very sturdy and thick handle.
Continue working sc stitches into the bag top and then around the second chain-40 handle loop (40 sc into those chains).
Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
Repeat this entire round (starting with ch 1, then sc all around the bag top and into the previous round's handle stitches) one or two more times (for a total of 2 or 3 handle strengthening rounds). This makes the handles even stronger, more comfortable, and less likely to stretch with use.
Fasten Off:
After completing your final handle strengthening round and joining with a slip stitch, cut your yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches (15 cm).
Yarn over with your hook, pull the cut tail completely through the loop left on your hook, and gently tug to secure the knot.
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Part 4: Final Finishing Touches (The Secret to a Professional Look!)
This stage is crucial for making your square bag look polished, clean, and durable.
Weave in All Ends (Meticulously!):
You'll have at least two yarn tails: one from your starting chain on the base and one from where you fastened off at the handles.
Thread one of your yarn tails onto your yarn needle.
How to Weave Neatly: Insert the needle into the stitches on the inside of your bag. Weave the tail into existing stitches for at least 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm). To make it extra secure and prevent unraveling, subtly change direction (e.g., weave along a stitch, then turn and weave back through some of the same stitches diagonally or perpendicularly) to "lock" the tail in place. Once secured, trim any excess yarn close to the fabric, being careful not to cut any of your actual crocheted stitches.
Repeat this process for all remaining yarn tails. Taking your time here makes a huge difference in the final appearance and longevity of your bag.
Blocking (Highly Recommended!):
Blocking is a simple process that can significantly improve the shape of your bag, especially a square one. It helps it sit evenly, makes the stitches look more uniform, and defines the corners, allowing the bag to stand up nicely on its own.
Method for Cotton Yarn:
Gently mist the entire bag evenly with cool water using a spray bottle until it's damp, but not soaking wet.
Stuff the bag lightly with clean towels, old t-shirts, or even plastic bags to help it hold its intended square shape (paying attention to the corners and handles).
Gently push out the corners of the base and sides to define the square. You can even use blocking pins to hold the corners and edges in place on a foam mat or cork board.
Allow the bag to air dry completely and thoroughly in a well-ventilated area. This might take a day or two, depending on humidity. Do not move or use the bag until it's bone dry.
Optional: Add a Fabric Lining:
For extra durability, to prevent stretching, and to keep small items from slipping through stitches, consider adding a fabric lining. This requires basic sewing skills. Measure the finished interior dimensions of your crocheted bag. Cut fabric pieces slightly larger, sew them into a matching pouch, and then hand-stitch or machine-stitch it neatly inside your crocheted bag.
Congratulations! You've successfully crocheted your very own Square Bag! This is a fantastic accomplishment for any beginner, and you now have a sturdy, handmade bag that's both functional and stylish.
What will be the first treasure you carry in your new handmade square bag?
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