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Let's get started on crocheting a fantastic net tote bag! This project is wonderfully quick and easy, making it perfect for beginners or anyone looking for a satisfying, fast make. Net totes are incredibly versatile – ideal for market trips, beach days, or just as a lightweight, reusable bag.
How to Crochet a Net Tote Bag Quickly and Easily
This detailed guide will walk you through creating a chic and practical net tote bag. We'll focus on a simple stitch pattern that creates the characteristic "net" effect, allowing for a speedy and straightforward crochet experience.
Skill Level: Beginner
This project is perfectly suited for you if you're comfortable with (or ready to learn!):
Chain (ch): The basic foundation.
Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining rounds.
Double Crochet (dc): A taller stitch that creates the open spaces.
Working in rounds: Crocheting in a continuous or joined circular manner.
Increasing (inc): Making more stitches to expand your work (for the base).
Working into chain spaces: Placing your hook accurately into the gaps.
Fastening off: Securing your work.
Weaving in ends: The essential finishing touch.
Finished Net Tote Bag Dimensions (Approximate):
Using worsted weight yarn and the suggested hook, your finished net tote will typically measure approximately 12-14 inches (30-35 cm) wide and 14-16 inches (35-40 cm) tall (excluding the handles), but its flexible nature means it can stretch to accommodate more!
Materials You'll Need:
Gathering your materials beforehand makes for a smoother crocheting experience.
Yarn: Approximately 200-300 yards (183-274 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton Yarn.
Why Cotton? Cotton is highly recommended for net bags because it's durable, has minimal stretch (important for a bag that will carry items), and is washable, which is great for market or beach bags. Acrylic can work, but may stretch more over time.
Color Choice: Any color will look great! Neutrals are classic, but bright colors really pop.
Crochet Hook: Size J/6.0mm (or K/6.5mm for a looser, quicker fabric). Using a larger hook than typical for worsted weight yarn is key to achieving that open, airy net look quickly.
Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for seamlessly weaving in all your loose yarn tails. It has a blunt tip and a large eye, making it easy to thread yarn through.
Scissors: For cutting your yarn.
Stitch Marker (Optional but Recommended): Helpful for marking the beginning of your rounds, especially when working in a spiral. A small safety pin or a scrap of contrasting yarn works perfectly.
Understanding the Net Tote Bag Construction: Bottom-Up & Mesh
This net tote bag is constructed from the bottom up, with a solid base that transitions into the airy mesh body.
Solid Oval Base: You'll start by creating a flat oval that will form the sturdy bottom of your bag.
Mesh Body: Once the base is complete, you'll switch to a simple chain-and-double-crochet pattern to create the open net fabric.
Handles: The final step involves creating integrated handles from the top edge of the bag.
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Let's Crochet Your Net Tote Bag!
Follow these steps carefully. The beauty of this bag is in its simplicity and repetition.
Part 1: Crocheting the Solid Oval Base
This forms the sturdy bottom of your net tote.
Starting Chain:
Begin by making a slip knot with your yarn and placing it onto your J/6.0mm crochet hook.
Chain (ch) 26. (This will determine the initial length of your bag's base. For a wider bag, chain more; for a narrower bag, chain less.)
Round 1:
Work 2 double crochet (dc) into the 3rd chain from your hook. (The skipped 2 chains count as your first dc).
Work 1 dc into each of the next 22 chains across.
Work 5 dc into the very last chain. (This creates the curved end of the oval).
Now, working down the opposite side of the foundation chain: Work 1 dc into each of the next 22 chains across.
Work 3 dc into the very first chain (the one where you started with the 2 dc).
Slip stitch (sl st) into the top of the starting chain-2 to join the round. [Total: 54 dc]
Round 2 (Increase Round):
Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch).
Work 2 dc into the same stitch where you joined. Work 2 dc into the next stitch. (These are increases for the curved end).
Work 1 dc into each of the next 22 stitches.
Work 2 dc into each of the next 5 stitches. (Increases for the other curved end).
Work 1 dc into each of the next 22 stitches.
Work 2 dc into each of the last 3 stitches. (Increases for the starting curved end).
Sl st into the top of the starting chain-2 to join. [Total: 64 dc]
Round 3 (Optional Increase Round for Larger Base):
Chain 2.
Work 1 dc in the first stitch, 2 dc in the next stitch. Repeat this twice more. (These are 3 sets of [1dc, 2dc] = 9 dc over 6 stitches).
Work 1 dc into each of the next 22 stitches.
Work [1 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch] 5 times. (These are 5 sets of [1dc, 2dc] = 15 dc over 10 stitches).
Work 1 dc into each of the next 22 stitches.
Work [1 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch] 3 times. (These are 3 sets of [1dc, 2dc] = 9 dc over 6 stitches).
Sl st into the top of the starting chain-2 to join. [Total: 74 dc]
Base Check: Your base should be a flat oval. If it's ruffling, you might have too many increases or your tension is too loose. If it's bowing, you might need more increases or your tension is too tight. Adjust as needed. For a smaller base, you can stop at Round 2.
Part 2: Building the Mesh Body
Now we transition to the open net stitch, which works up very quickly!
Transition Round (Establishing Mesh):
Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch).
Work 1 single crochet (sc) into the Back Loop Only (BLO) of each stitch around. Sl st into the first sc to join. [Total: 74 sc or your last base stitch count] (This creates a distinct ridge on the outside of your base, allowing the sides to stand upright neatly).
Mesh Body Rounds (Repeat these 2 rounds):
Mesh Round 1:
Chain 4 (counts as 1 dc + ch 2).
Skip the next 2 stitches.
Work 1 dc into the next stitch.
Repeat the pattern: * Chain 2, Skip the next 2 stitches, Work 1 dc into the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around the entire round.
You should end with a chain 2.
Sl st into the 2nd chain of the starting chain-4 to join the round. (This joins your last ch-2 to the top of the first dc).
[Total: 25 dc and 25 ch-2 spaces for a 74 stitch base, or 1/3 of your previous stitch count in dc's and ch-2 spaces]
Mesh Round 2:
Chain 4 (counts as 1 dc + ch 2).
Work 1 dc into the next chain-2 space. (You're now working directly into the spaces created by the previous round).
Repeat the pattern: * Chain 2, Work 1 dc into the next chain-2 space.* Repeat from * to * around the entire round.
You should end with a chain 2.
Sl st into the 2nd chain of the starting chain-4 to join the round.
[Total: Still 25 dc and 25 ch-2 spaces]
Repeat Mesh Round 1 and Mesh Round 2 alternately until your bag reaches the desired height (e.g., 12-14 inches / 30-35 cm), or for approximately 20-25 rounds total for the mesh body. You'll notice how quickly the bag grows with this pattern!
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Part 3: Creating the Handles
We'll form the handles directly from the top edge of the bag.
Handle Foundation Round (Last Mesh Round):
After your final Mesh Body Round, do not chain 4 to start a new mesh round. Instead, you'll start building the handle opening.
Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch).
Work 1 sc into the same chain-2 space where you just joined.
Work 1 sc into the top of the next dc.
Work 1 sc into the next chain-2 space.
Continue working 1 sc into each dc and 1 sc into each ch-2 space around the entire top edge of your bag. This creates a solid rim for your handles.
Sl st into the first sc to join. [Total: Same stitch count as your base, e.g., 74 sc]
Handle Construction Round (Forming the Gaps):
Chain 1.
Work 1 sc into each of the first 10 stitches. (This forms one side of the bag's top).
Chain 20 (this creates one handle loop – adjust chain length for a longer/shorter handle).
Skip 17 stitches (this creates the opening for the arm).
Work 1 sc into each of the next 20 stitches. (This forms the second side of the bag's top, between handles).
Chain 20 (this creates the second handle loop).
Skip 17 stitches.
Work 1 sc into each of the last 10 stitches.
Sl st into the first sc to join. [Total: 40 sc stitches on the bag top and 40 chain stitches for the handles]
Handle Finishing Rounds (Making handles sturdy):
Round 1: Chain 1. Work 1 sc into each sc around the top of the bag. When you reach a chain-20 handle loop, work 20 sc stitches around the chain itself (not into individual chains, but around the whole loop) to create a sturdy handle. Continue working 1 sc into each sc on the bag, then 20 sc around the next handle loop.
Sl st into the first sc to join.
Round 2: Chain 1. Work 1 sc into each stitch around (working into the sc stitches you just made, including those on the handles). Sl st into the first sc to join.
Repeat Round 2 for 1-2 more rounds to create a thicker, more comfortable handle.
Part 4: Final Finishing Touches
Fasten Off:
After completing your last handle round, cut your yarn, leaving a tail about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long.
Yarn over with your hook, pull the cut tail completely through the loop left on your hook, and gently tug to secure the knot. This is called "fastening off."
Weave in ALL Remaining Ends:
This is crucial for a clean, neat, and durable bag. You'll have tails from your starting chain, possibly from joining new yarn if needed, and your final fasten-off.
Use your yarn needle to meticulously weave in every single loose yarn tail.
How to Weave Neatly: Thread the yarn tail onto your yarn needle. Weave the tail into the stitches of the same color. Go in one direction for at least 1.5-2 inches (4-5 cm). To truly secure it, subtly change direction (e.g., weave along a row, then turn and weave back through some of the same stitches diagonally or perpendicularly) to "lock" the tail in place and prevent it from unraveling. Trim any excess yarn close to the fabric, being careful not to cut any of your actual stitches.
Blocking (Optional but Recommended):
Blocking can significantly improve the shape and drape of your crocheted net tote, making the stitches more even and the bag lay beautifully.
Method (Wet Blocking - Ideal for Cotton):
Gently mist your entire bag evenly with cool water using a spray bottle until it's damp but not soaking wet.
Carefully stretch and shape the bag to your desired dimensions. You can lay it flat on a clean surface, or even hang it up (if using cotton, it can be heavy when wet, so hang carefully) or place it over a large bowl/basket to dry in a more open shape.
Allow the bag to air dry completely and thoroughly in a well-ventilated area. This can take several hours to a full day, depending on humidity and ventilation. Ensure it's bone dry before handling or using it further.
Congratulations! You've successfully crocheted a functional and stylish net tote bag quickly and easily! This versatile and eco-friendly bag is perfect for all your shopping adventures or beach outings. Enjoy using your new handmade creation!
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