Creating a "Coaster Supla Flower" combines the functionality of a sturdy mat with the decorative beauty of a layered flower motif. This tutorial will guide you through crocheting a beautiful, flat, and textured flower that's perfect for a large mug, small teapot, candle, or even as a centerpiece on your table.
How To Crochet a Coaster Supla Flower
Project Overview: This pattern creates a stunning, multi-layered flower motif that functions as a robust coaster supla, approximately 7-8 inches (18-20 cm) in diameter. The design features distinct layers of petals, each built upon specific loops from previous rounds, ensuring the flower lies beautifully flat while maintaining a lovely texture. While shown in a single color to highlight texture, you can easily adapt it for multiple colors (see tips).
Skill Level: Intermediate (Requires familiarity with basic stitches, working in the round, understanding how to work into front/back loops and specific stitches for layering, and maintaining consistent tension for flatness).
Finished Coaster Supla Flower Dimensions (Approximate):
- Diameter: 7-8 inches (18-20 cm)
Materials You'll Need:
- Yarn:
- Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton Yarn: Approximately 100-150 yards (90-137 meters).
- Why cotton? It's durable, absorbent, heat-resistant, and holds its shape exceptionally well, making it ideal for a functional table mat.
- Color: This tutorial uses a single color to emphasize the petal texture, but you can easily use 2, 3, or more colors by changing yarn at the end of different rounds.
- Crochet Hook:
- Size H/5.0mm (or the hook size that gives you a dense, firm fabric that lies perfectly flat. Gauge is crucial here).
- Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for weaving in loose ends.
- Scissors
- Stitch Marker (Optional): Can be helpful to mark the beginning of rounds.
Gauge (Crucial for Flatness!):
Maintaining consistent gauge is vital to ensure your coaster supla flower lies perfectly flat without ruffling or cupping.
- With your H/5.0mm hook and chosen yarn, after Round 2 (the initial petal base), your circle should measure approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in diameter.
- If your flower ruffles, you might be increasing too much, or your tension is too loose. If it cups, you're not increasing enough, or your tension is too tight. Adjust your hook size or tension accordingly.
Abbreviations Used:
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet (yarn over twice, insert hook, yo and pull up loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops] 3 times)
- dtr: double treble crochet (yarn over three times, insert hook, yo and pull up loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops] 4 times)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- inc: increase (work 2 stitches into the same stitch)
- sk: skip
- ch-sp: chain space
- MR: Magic Ring (also known as Magic Circle or Adjustable Ring)
- FLO: Front Loop Only
- BLO: Back Loop Only
- FO: fasten off
Understanding Flower Supla Construction: Layered Petals & Flatness
This flower supla is built in distinct layers, working outwards from a central disk. The key to its flatness and layered look is:
- Working into specific loops (FLO/BLO): This allows you to create one layer of petals and then use the unworked loops from the same round to build a base for the next layer of petals behind the first.
- Connecting Rounds: Between petal layers, you'll crochet a "connecting round" into the unworked loops/stitches. These rounds expand the circle while maintaining a flat base, which is crucial for a supla.
- Varying Stitch Heights: Petals are shaped using a progression of short to tall stitches (sc, hdc, dc, tr, dtr) and back down to create the rounded petal shape.
Let's Start Crocheting Your Flower Coaster Supla!
Part 1: Flower Center
Option A: Magic Ring (Recommended for a tight center)
- Make a Magic Ring (MR).
- Round 1: Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch). Work 12 hdc into the MR. Pull the tail tight to close the ring. Sl st to the first hdc to join. (Total: 12 hdc).
Option B: Chain 2 Method (Alternative)
- Ch 2.
- Round 1: Work 12 hdc into the 2nd ch from hook. Sl st to the first hdc to join. (Total: 12 hdc).
Part 2: First Petal Layer (Inner Petals)
We'll work this layer of petals into the FLO (Front Loop Only) of the stitches from Round 1. This leaves the back loops free for a connecting round.
- Round 2 (Petal Base & Petals):
- Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch).
- Work 2 sc in FLO of each of the 12 hdc from Round 1.
- Sl st to the first sc to join. (Total: 24 sc in FLO).
- FO, leaving a 6-inch tail. Weave in this tail securely on the back of your flower.
You now have a central disk with a ring of 24 sc stitches worked in their front loops, leaving the back loops of Round 1 still unworked.
Part 3: Connecting Round & Second Petal Layer (Outer Petals)
Now, we'll work a round of stitches into the unworked BLOs of Round 1, then build a larger set of petals on top of these.
-
Round 3 (Connecting Base):
- Join yarn with a sl st into any unworked BLO from Round 1.
- Ch 2 (counts as first hdc). Hdc in the same BLO. (This is your first increase).
- (Hdc in the next BLO, 2 hdc in the next BLO). Repeat from * to * around.
- Sl st to the top of the initial ch-2 to join. (Total: 18 hdc in BLO).
-
Round 4 (Second Petal Layer):
- Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch).
- Petal: (Sc in the next hdc, hdc in the next hdc, dc in the next hdc, tr in the next hdc, dc in the next hdc, hdc in the next hdc, sc in the next hdc). This forms one petal over 7 stitches.
- Sk 2 hdc (these two stitches will form the 'valley' between petals).
- Repeat the Petal instructions (Sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc) over the next 7 hdc.
- Sk 2 hdc.
- Repeat the Petal instructions (Sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc) over the next 7 hdc.
- You should have 3 large petals formed. Sl st into the first sc of the round (the base of your first petal) to secure.
- FO, leaving a long tail (approx. 8-10 inches / 20-25 cm). Weave in this tail very carefully along the back of the petal bases.
You now have a larger flower with 3 prominent petals.
Part 4: Final Outer Layer & Supla Shaping
To expand the flower to a supla size and give it a firm edge, we'll build a final, larger layer. This requires working into the skipped stitches from Round 4 to create a base.
-
Round 5 (Connecting Base for Outer Petals):
- Join yarn with a sl st into any of the skipped hdc stitches from Round 4 (the valley between petals).
- Ch 2 (counts as first hdc). Hdc in the same skipped st.
- Hdc in the next skipped st. (You're now working into the 2 skipped sts from Round 4).
- Now, look at the base of the petals from Round 4. You will work into the slip stitch joining the petals and the center of the tr stitch at the peak of the petals to create anchor points for expansion.
- (2 hdc into the sl st join from Round 4, 2 hdc into the top of the tr stitch of the next petal). Repeat from * to * two more times.
- You should now have a ring of approximately 24 hdc stitches (this can vary slightly based on tension and how you pick up the stitches, but aim for even distribution). Sl st to the top of the initial ch-2 to join.
-
Round 6 (Third Petal Layer / Outer Edge):
- Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch).
- Petal: (Sc in the next hdc, hdc in the next hdc, dc in the next hdc, 2 tr in the next hdc, dtr in the next hdc, 2 tr in the next hdc, dc in the next hdc, hdc in the next hdc, sc in the next hdc). This forms a very large petal over 9 stitches.
- Sl st in the next hdc (this will be the valley between petals).
- Repeat the Petal instructions (Sc, hdc, dc, 2tr, dtr, 2tr, dc, hdc, sc) over the next 9 hdc.
- Sl st in the next hdc.
- Repeat the Petal instructions (Sc, hdc, dc, 2tr, dtr, 2tr, dc, hdc, sc) over the next 9 hdc.
- Sl st in the next hdc.
- Repeat the Petal instructions (Sc, hdc, dc, 2tr, dtr, 2tr, dc, hdc, sc) over the next 9 hdc.
- Sl st in the next hdc.
- Repeat the Petal instructions (Sc, hdc, dc, 2tr, dtr, 2tr, dc, hdc, sc) over the next 9 hdc.
- Sl st into the first sc of the round (the base of your first petal) to secure.
- FO, leaving a 6-inch tail.
Part 5: Finishing & Blocking (Crucial for a Flat Coaster Supla!)
- Weave in All Ends: This is essential for a neat, professional-looking flower supla. Thread each yarn tail onto your yarn needle. Carefully weave it through several stitches on the back side of your supla, ensuring it's secure and invisible from the front. Take your time with this step.
- Blocking (Highly Recommended!): Blocking will make your flower supla perfectly flat, open up the stitches, and define the petal shapes beautifully. This is especially important for a multi-layered item to ensure it lays flat on a table.
- Method: Gently wet your finished flower supla (either by misting with water or a quick dip and gentle squeeze – do not wring). Lay it perfectly flat on a blocking mat or a clean, thick towel. Gently shape each petal and ensure the entire supla is flat and symmetrical. Pin it in place if needed. Allow it to air dry completely.
- Add a Center Embellishment (Optional): For an extra touch of beauty, you can sew a small decorative button or bead onto the very center of your flower.
Your beautiful crochet Coaster Supla Flower is now complete! It's a wonderful decorative and functional piece for your home, or a thoughtful handmade gift. Enjoy!
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