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Stunning Crochet Sunflower Coaster in Yellow Color!๐ŸŒธ๐ŸŒธ๐ŸŒธ


Crocheting a sunflower coaster is a fun, quick, and rewarding project that adds a pop of cheerful color to your home. This tutorial will guide you step-by-step through creating a beautiful, multi-layered sunflower design, perfect for confident beginners ready to try color changes and simple shaping. We'll be focusing on a classic yellow color for the petals to truly capture the essence of a sunflower.

Skill Level: Confident Beginner

This pattern is a great next step if you're comfortable with:

  • Magic Ring (MR): For a neat, closed center.

  • Chain (ch): The foundation of crochet.

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining rounds and finishing.

  • Single Crochet (sc): A sturdy, basic stitch.

  • Half Double Crochet (hdc): A medium-height stitch.

  • Double Crochet (dc): The main stitch for creating the petals.

  • Changing Colors: Seamlessly switching between different yarns.

  • Fastening Off and weaving in ends.

Finished Coaster Dimensions (Approximate):

Using worsted weight yarn (Medium #4) and the suggested hook, your finished coaster will be about 5 inches (12.5 cm) in diameter.


Materials You'll Need:

  • Yarn: Approximately 20-30 yards (18-27 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton Yarn. Cotton is highly recommended for coasters as it is absorbent and durable.

    • Brown or Dark Brown: For the center.

    • Yellow: For the petals.

    • Green: For the final round.

  • Crochet Hook: Size H/5.0mm.

  • Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for seamlessly weaving in all your loose yarn tails.

  • Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting your yarn.



Part 1: The Brown Center

We'll start with the dark center of the sunflower. This is a simple flat circle.

  1. Round 1 (Magic Ring):

    • With your brown yarn, create a Magic Ring (MR).

    • Chain 1 (ch 1) (does not count as a stitch).

    • Work 10 half double crochet (hdc) stitches into the Magic Ring.

    • Pull the Magic Ring tail tightly to close the hole.

    • Join with a slip stitch (sl st) to the first hdc.

    • Fasten off and cut your brown yarn, leaving a short tail to weave in later.

  2. Round 2:

    • With your yellow yarn, join to any stitch with a sl st.

    • Chain 2 (ch 2) (counts as your first hdc).

    • Work 1 hdc into the same stitch.

    • Work 2 hdc into each stitch around. (20 hdc)

    • Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 2.


Part 2: The Yellow Petals

Now for the cheerful petals! We'll create the petals by working a series of stitches into the stitches of the previous round.

  1. Round 3:

    • Chain 1 (ch 1) (does not count as a stitch).

    • *In the first stitch, work 1 sc.

    • In the next stitch, work (1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc).

    • In the next stitch, work 1 sc.*

    • Repeat from * to * around the entire circle. You will create 5 petals in total.

    • Join with a sl st to the first sc you made at the beginning of the round.

    • Fasten off and cut your yellow yarn.



Part 3: The Green Base and Finishing

This final round of green gives the coaster a sturdy base and a finished, leafy look.

  1. Round 4:

    • With your green yarn, join to any stitch with a sl st.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1) (does not count as a stitch).

    • *Work 1 sc into the next 4 stitches (this takes you around the edge of a petal).

    • In the next stitch (the single crochet between the petals), work 3 sc.*

    • Repeat from * to * around the entire coaster.

    • Join with a sl st to the first sc you made.

  2. Fasten Off and cut your yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches (15 cm).


Final Finishing Touches

  1. Weave in All Ends:

    • Use your yarn needle to meticulously weave in all the yarn tails. Weave them into the stitches on the back of the coaster, changing direction to lock them in place. This is the most crucial step for a professional and durable finish.

  2. Blocking (Optional but Recommended):

    • For a perfect, flat coaster, gently mist it with water.

    • Place it on a flat surface and gently shape it with your hands.

    • Let it air dry completely.

Congratulations! You've successfully crocheted a stunning Sunflower Coaster. Enjoy your beautiful, handmade creation!

Video Tutorial



Amazing Summer Bucket Hat from Yarn Scraps (Easy Crochet)๐Ÿ‘’๐Ÿ‘’


Crocheting a bucket hat is a fantastic summer project, and using granny squares makes it even better. Not only can you use up those leftover yarn scraps, but you can also create a one-of-a-kind, colorful accessory. This tutorial will guide you through all the necessary steps, from making the individual squares to joining them, shaping the hat, and adding a finished brim.

Skill Level: Confident Beginner

This pattern is ideal if you're comfortable with:

  • Magic Ring (MR): For a neat, closed center.

  • Chain (ch): The fundamental stitch.

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining rounds neatly.

  • Double Crochet (dc): The main stitch for granny squares.

  • Joining Motifs: Connecting your granny squares together.

  • Working in Rounds: Crocheting in joined circles.

Finished Hat Dimensions (Approximate):

Using the recommended yarn and hook, your finished hat will fit an average adult head. You can adjust the size by using slightly larger or smaller squares.

  • Hat Circumference: 22-23 inches (56-58 cm)

  • Hat Height: 6-7 inches (15-18 cm)

  • Brim Width: 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm)


Materials You'll Need:

  • Yarn: Approximately 150-200 yards (135-180 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or Cotton Blend Yarn. Cotton is highly recommended for a summer hat as it's breathable and holds its shape well. This project is perfect for using yarn scraps, but you'll need enough of one main color for joining and the brim.

  • Crochet Hook: Size H/5.0mm.

  • Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): For weaving in ends and sewing the squares together.

  • Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting your yarn.

  • Stitch Markers (Optional): Helpful for marking corners.



Part 1: Making the Granny Squares

You will need to make 5 identical squares. The size of your squares is important as it determines the finished size of your hat. A good size for this project is about 4.5-5 inches (11.5-12.5 cm) per side.

For each square, follow these steps:

  1. Round 1 (Magic Ring):

    • Create a Magic Ring (MR) with your first color.

    • Chain 3 (ch 3) (counts as your first dc).

    • Work 2 double crochet (dc) stitches into the ring.

    • Chain 2 (ch 2) (this creates your first corner space).

    • *Work 3 dc into the ring. Chain 2 (ch 2).*

    • Repeat from * to * two more times.

    • Pull the yarn tail to close the ring tightly.

    • Join with a slip stitch (sl st) to the top of the beginning ch 3. (4 clusters of 3 dc, 4 corner spaces)

  2. Round 2:

    • Change to a new color.

    • Chain 3 (ch 3) (counts as your first dc).

    • Work 2 dc into the same corner space.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1) (this creates a side space).

    • In the next corner space, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • In the next corner space, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • In the next corner space, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • In the first corner space (where you started), work 3 dc.

    • Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.

  3. Round 3:

    • Change to a new color.

    • Chain 3 (ch 3).

    • Work 2 dc into the same corner space.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • Work 3 dc into the next side space.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • In the next corner space, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • Continue this pattern: 3 dc into each side space and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into each corner space.

    • Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.

  4. Repeat Round 3 until your squares measure about 4.5 inches on each side. You will need 5 squares total.


Part 2: Assembling the Hat

Once you have your 5 squares, it's time to join them to form the hat's crown and sides. We'll use a yarn needle and a simple whip stitch for a clean, durable seam.

  1. Arrange the Squares:

    • Take four of your squares and arrange them in a long strip. These will form the sides of the hat.

    • Take the fifth square and place it in the center of the four-square strip. This will be the top of the hat.

  2. Join the Squares:

    • Using a yarn needle and a sturdy yarn (your main color), lay two squares next to each other, wrong sides facing.

    • Begin a whip stitch by inserting your needle into the corner stitch of both squares and sewing through both loops of each corresponding stitch.

    • Continue sewing down the side until you reach the next corner.

    • Repeat this process to join all four side squares to the top square.

    • Finally, join the two ends of the four-square strip together to form a tube.



Part 3: Adding the Brim

The brim is the final element that gives the hat its classic bucket hat shape. We'll work the brim in a continuous spiral for a seamless look.

  1. Set Up the First Brim Round:

    • With your chosen brim color, join your yarn with a slip stitch to any stitch on the bottom edge of the hat.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • Work 1 single crochet (sc) into the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch around the entire bottom edge. This creates a neat ridge.

    • Do NOT join with a slip stitch. This round should have approximately 72-84 stitches. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the round.

  2. Increase Rounds (for the flare):

    • Round 2 (Increase): *Work 2 sc into the next stitch. Work 1 sc into the next 5 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around.

    • Round 3 (No Increase): Work 1 sc into each stitch around.

    • Round 4 (Increase): *Work 2 sc into the next stitch. Work 1 sc into the next 6 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around.

    • Round 5 (No Increase): Work 1 sc into each stitch around.

    • Note: Continue alternating between increase and non-increase rounds until the brim reaches your desired width. It should start to flare outward.

  3. Final Brim Round:

    • When your brim is the desired width, work one final round of single crochet.

    • Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round.

    • Fasten Off (FO), leaving a tail of about 6 inches (15 cm).


Part 4: Final Finishing Touches

  1. Weave in All Ends:

    • Use your yarn needle to meticulously weave in all the yarn tails from your squares, the joining, and the brim.

    • Weave the tails along existing stitches on the inside of the hat, changing direction to lock them in place.

  2. Blocking (Optional but Recommended):

    • Gently mist the hat with cool water until it is damp.

    • Place the hat over a bowl or a small balloon to help it hold its dome shape, and lay the brim flat to dry.

    • Allow the hat to air dry completely and thoroughly.

Congratulations! You've successfully crocheted a unique and stylish Granny Square Bucket Hat!

Video Tutorial



Simple Yet Luxurious Crochet Bag | Easy and Quick to Make๐Ÿ‘œ๐Ÿ‘œ


Crocheting a luxurious-looking bag doesn't have to be complicated. With the right yarn and a simple, textured stitch, you can create a beautiful accessory that looks expensive and sophisticated. This tutorial will guide you through making a bag that is both easy and quick, perfect for a confident beginner ready to tackle a wearable project.

Why This Project Looks Luxurious

The secret to this bag's elegant appearance lies in two key elements:

  • Yarn Choice: We'll use a T-shirt yarn or a chunky cotton yarn. The weight and texture of these yarns create a thick, structured fabric with a rich feel. A solid color, like black, cream, or a deep jewel tone, enhances the sophisticated look.

  • The Moss Stitch: This simple stitch, made of single crochets and chains, creates a dense, woven-like texture that looks far more intricate than it is. It's perfect for a bag because it doesn't have large holes, which keeps your belongings secure.

Skill Level: Confident Beginner

You should be comfortable with:

  • Chain (ch): The foundation of crochet.

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining stitches.

  • Single Crochet (sc): The main stitch for this pattern.

  • Working in Rounds: Crocheting in a continuous circle.

  • Fastening Off and weaving in ends.

Finished Bag Dimensions (Approximate):

This pattern creates a small to medium-sized tote, perfect for carrying a wallet, phone, and a few essentials.

  • Base: 8 inches (20 cm) in diameter.

  • Height: 10 inches (25 cm).


Materials You'll Need:

  • Yarn: Approximately 150-200 yards (135-180 meters) of Super Bulky (#6) T-shirt Yarn or Chunky Cotton Yarn. You can also double-up two strands of worsted weight yarn for a similar effect.

  • Crochet Hook: Size N/10mm or P/11.5mm, depending on your yarn and desired tension. A larger hook will make the project work up faster.

  • Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for weaving in ends.

  • Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting your yarn.

  • Stitch Marker: Helpful for marking the beginning of each round.



Part 1: Crocheting the Base of the Bag

We'll start by making a flat, circular base.

  1. Round 1 (Magic Ring):

    • Create a Magic Ring (MR).

    • Chain 1 (ch 1) (does not count as a stitch).

    • Work 8 single crochet (sc) stitches into the Magic Ring.

    • Pull the yarn tail to close the ring tightly.

    • Join with a slip stitch (sl st) to the first sc to close the round. (8 sc)

  2. Round 2:

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • Work 2 sc into each stitch around. (16 sc)

    • Join with a sl st to the first sc.

  3. Round 3:

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • *Work 1 sc into the first stitch. Work 2 sc into the next stitch.*

    • Repeat from * to * around the round. (24 sc)

    • Join with a sl st to the first sc.

  4. Round 4:

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • *Work 1 sc into the next 2 stitches. Work 2 sc into the next stitch.*

    • Repeat from * to * around the round. (32 sc)

    • Join with a sl st to the first sc.

  5. Continue Increasing:

    • Continue this pattern of increasing in each round until your base measures approximately 8 inches in diameter.

    • The pattern for each round is to work one more single crochet between each increase. For example, Round 5 would be *1 sc into the next 3 stitches, 2 sc into the next stitch.*



Part 2: Crocheting the Body of the Bag (Moss Stitch)

Now we'll move from a flat circle to working the walls of the bag using the beautiful moss stitch.

  1. Set Up Round:

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • Work 1 sc into the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch around the entire round. This creates a neat ridge that separates the base from the body of the bag.

    • Join with a sl st to the first sc.

  2. Start the Moss Stitch:

    • Chain 1 (ch 1) (does not count as a stitch).

    • Work 1 sc into the first stitch.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1), skip the next stitch.

    • Work 1 sc into the next stitch.

    • *ch 1, skip the next stitch, work 1 sc into the next stitch.*

    • Repeat from * to * around the round.

    • Join with a sl st to the first sc.

  3. Moss Stitch Rounds:

    • From here on, you'll work into the chain spaces from the previous round.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • Work 1 sc into the first ch 1 space.

    • *ch 1, work 1 sc into the next ch 1 space.*

    • Repeat from * to * around the round.

    • Join with a sl st to the first sc.

    • Repeat this round until the bag reaches your desired height (about 10 inches).


Part 3: Adding the Handles

We'll create simple handles with a series of chains.

  1. Handle Placement:

    • Work a round of sc into each stitch and ch 1 space around the top of the bag. This will create a solid top edge.

    • Use stitch markers to mark where you want your handles to be. A good placement is about 5 stitches apart for the inside of the handle, with a 10-stitch gap on each side.

  2. Create the Handles:

    • Chain 1.

    • Work sc to your first stitch marker.

    • Chain 30 (or to your desired length).

    • Skip the stitches between the first two markers and sc into the next marked stitch.

    • Work sc to your third stitch marker.

    • Chain 30.

    • Skip the stitches between the last two markers and sc into the final marked stitch.

    • Continue sc to the end of the round.

    • Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round.

  3. Strengthen the Handles:

    • Work one or two more rounds of sc around the entire top of the bag, working a sc into each chain of the handles. This will give the handles a strong, finished look.

    • Fasten off and weave in all ends securely.

Congratulations! You've successfully crocheted a simple yet luxurious-looking bag. It's the perfect accessory for any occasion.

Video Tutorial



Crochet granny squares bucket hat - step by step tutorial!๐Ÿ‘’๐Ÿ‘’


Crocheting a bucket hat out of granny squares is a fun and creative project that allows you to mix and match colors to create a truly unique accessory. This tutorial will walk you through all the necessary steps, from making the individual squares to joining them, shaping the hat, and adding a finished brim. It's a great project for using up yarn scraps and making a stylish, one-of-a-kind hat.

Skill Level: Intermediate

This pattern is ideal for you if you're comfortable with:

  • Magic Ring (MR): For a neat, closed center.

  • Chain (ch): The fundamental stitch.

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining rounds neatly.

  • Double Crochet (dc): The main stitch for granny squares.

  • Joining Motifs: Connecting your granny squares together.

  • Working in Rounds: Crocheting in joined circles.

Finished Hat Dimensions (Approximate):

Using the recommended yarn and hook, your finished hat will fit an average adult head.

  • Hat Circumference: 22-23 inches (56-58 cm)

  • Hat Height: 6-7 inches (15-18 cm)

  • Brim Width: 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm)


Materials You'll Need:

  • Yarn: Approximately 150-200 yards (135-180 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or Cotton Blend Yarn. Cotton is highly recommended for a summer hat as it's breathable and holds its shape well. You'll need enough yarn to make 5 identical squares and enough of one main color for the brim and joining.

  • Crochet Hook: Size H/5.0mm.

  • Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): For weaving in ends and sewing the squares together.

  • Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting your yarn.

  • Stitch Markers (Optional): Helpful for marking corners.



Part 1: Making the Granny Squares

You will need to make 5 identical squares. The size of your squares is important as it determines the finished size of your hat. A good size for this project is about 4.5-5 inches (11.5-12.5 cm) per side.

For each square, follow these steps:

  1. Round 1 (Magic Ring):

    • Create a Magic Ring (MR).

    • Chain 3 (ch 3) (counts as your first dc).

    • Work 2 double crochet (dc) stitches into the ring.

    • Chain 2 (ch 2) (this creates your first corner space).

    • *Work 3 dc into the ring. Chain 2 (ch 2).*

    • Repeat from * to * two more times.

    • Pull the yarn tail to close the ring tightly.

    • Join with a slip stitch (sl st) to the top of the beginning ch 3. (4 clusters of 3 dc, 4 corner spaces)

  2. Round 2:

    • Chain 3 (ch 3) (counts as your first dc).

    • Work 2 dc into the same corner space.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1) (this creates a side space).

    • In the next corner space, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • In the next corner space, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • In the next corner space, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • In the first corner space (where you started), work 3 dc.

    • Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.

  3. Round 3:

    • Chain 3 (ch 3).

    • Work 2 dc into the same corner space.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • Work 3 dc into the next side space.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • In the next corner space, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • Continue this pattern: 3 dc into each side space and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into each corner space.

    • Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.

  4. Repeat Round 3 until your squares measure about 4.5 inches on each side. You will need 5 squares total.


Part 2: Assembling the Hat

Once you have your 5 squares, it's time to join them to form the hat's crown and sides. We'll use a yarn needle and a simple whip stitch for a clean, durable seam.

  1. Arrange the Squares:

    • Take four of your squares and arrange them in a long strip. These will form the sides of the hat.

    • Take the fifth square and place it in the center of the four-square strip. This will be the top of the hat.

  2. Join the Squares:

    • Using a yarn needle and a sturdy yarn (your main color), lay two squares next to each other, wrong sides facing.

    • Begin a whip stitch by inserting your needle into the corner stitch of both squares and sewing through both loops of each corresponding stitch.

    • Continue sewing down the side until you reach the next corner.

    • Repeat this process to join all four side squares to the top square.

    • Finally, join the two ends of the four-square strip together to form a tube.



Part 3: Adding the Brim

The brim is the final element that gives the hat its classic bucket hat shape. We'll work the brim in a continuous spiral for a seamless look.

  1. Set Up the First Brim Round:

    • With your chosen brim color, join your yarn with a slip stitch to any stitch on the bottom edge of the hat.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • Work 1 single crochet (sc) into the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch around the entire bottom edge. This creates a neat ridge.

    • Do NOT join with a slip stitch. This round should have approximately 72-84 stitches. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the round.

  2. Increase Rounds (for the flare):

    • Round 2 (Increase): *Work 2 sc into the next stitch. Work 1 sc into the next 5 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around.

    • Round 3 (No Increase): Work 1 sc into each stitch around.

    • Round 4 (Increase): *Work 2 sc into the next stitch. Work 1 sc into the next 6 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around.

    • Round 5 (No Increase): Work 1 sc into each stitch around.

    • Note: Continue alternating between increase and non-increase rounds until the brim reaches your desired width. It should start to flare outward.

  3. Final Brim Round:

    • When your brim is the desired width, work one final round of single crochet.

    • Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round.

    • Fasten Off (FO), leaving a tail of about 6 inches (15 cm).


Part 4: Final Finishing Touches

  1. Weave in All Ends:

    • Use your yarn needle to meticulously weave in all the yarn tails from your squares, the joining, and the brim.

    • Weave the tails along existing stitches on the inside of the hat, changing direction to lock them in place.

  2. Blocking (Optional but Recommended):

    • Gently mist the hat with cool water until it is damp.

    • Place the hat over a bowl or a small balloon to help it hold its dome shape, and lay the brim flat to dry.

    • Allow the hat to air dry completely and thoroughly.

Congratulations! You've successfully crocheted a unique and stylish Granny Square Bucket Hat!

Video Tutorial



๐ŸŒผ How to Crochet an Easy 3D Flower Coaster – Full Tutorial for Beginners


Welcome to the world of crochet! This detailed tutorial will guide you step-by-step through creating a beautiful and textured 3D flower coaster. This project is the perfect next step for beginners who have mastered basic stitches and are ready to explore creating shapes with dimension. It works up quickly, uses only a small amount of yarn, and is a fantastic way to practice new techniques.

Why a 3D Flower Coaster is Perfect for Beginners

  • Quick to Make: You can complete a coaster in an hour or two, giving you a fast and satisfying result.

  • Skill Builder: This project introduces you to a few key techniques: the Magic Ring, working in rounds, and creating 3D shapes with stitches of varying heights.

  • Scrap Yarn Friendly: You only need a small amount of yarn, making this the perfect project to use up leftover yarn from other projects.

  • Useful and Giftable: A handmade coaster is a practical item for your home or a thoughtful, personal gift for a friend or family member.

Skill Level: Confident Beginner

You should be comfortable with the following techniques before starting this project:

  • Magic Ring (MR) / Adjustable Ring: Creating a tight, closed circle to start your project.

  • Chain (ch): The fundamental stitch.

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining rounds neatly.

  • Single Crochet (sc): A short, sturdy stitch.

  • Double Crochet (dc): A taller stitch that works up quickly.

  • Treble Crochet (tr) / Triple Crochet: An even taller stitch used here to create the curve of the petals.

  • Working in the Round: Following a pattern to crochet in a circle.

  • Fastening Off: Securing your work at the end.

  • Weaving in Ends: The final, professional touch.

Finished Coaster Dimensions (Approximate):

Using worsted weight yarn (Medium #4) and the suggested hook, your finished coaster will be about 4-5 inches (10-12 cm) in diameter.



Materials You'll Need:

  • Yarn: Approximately 15-20 yards (14-18 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Yarn. For coasters, cotton yarn is highly recommended as it's absorbent, durable, and holds its shape well.

  • Crochet Hook: Size H/5.0mm. This is a standard hook size that pairs perfectly with worsted weight yarn to create a solid, yet flexible, fabric.

  • Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for seamlessly weaving in all your loose yarn tails at the end.

  • Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting your yarn.


Let's Crochet Your 3D Flower Coaster!

This pattern is worked in two main parts: the flat circular center of the flower and the beautiful, textured 3D petals that make the coaster pop.

Part 1: The Flower Center

This forms the sturdy base of your coaster. It's a simple, flat circle created with single crochet stitches.

  1. Round 1 (Magic Ring):

    • Create a Magic Ring (MR). This technique ensures a tight, closed center with no gap.

    • Chain 1 (ch 1). This chain does not count as a stitch; it simply gives you height for the first round.

    • Work 8 single crochet (sc) stitches into the Magic Ring.

    • Gently pull the tail of the Magic Ring to cinch the hole closed.

    • Join with a slip stitch (sl st) into the top of the first single crochet you made. (8 stitches total).

  2. Round 2:

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • Work 2 single crochet (sc) stitches into each stitch around the circle. This is how you'll increase the size of your flat circle.

    • You should have 16 stitches in this round.

    • Join with a slip stitch (sl st) to the first single crochet of the round. (16 stitches total).



Part 2: The 3D Petals

This is where the magic happens! We'll create the petals by working a series of stitches of increasing height all into the same stitch, and then securing them with a slip stitch into the next. This creates a beautifully curved, puffy petal.

  1. Round 3 (Creating the Petals):

    • Chain 1 (ch 1).

    • In the very first stitch of the round (the one you just joined to), you will work the first petal. Work the following stitches all into this one single stitch: 1 double crochet (dc), 1 treble crochet (tr), then 1 double crochet (dc). You can use a stitch marker to mark this first stitch if you get lost.

    • Slip stitch (sl st) into the next stitch to anchor your petal.

    • Now, you'll repeat this pattern around the entire circle.

    • *In the next stitch, work a petal: (dc, tr, dc).

    • Slip stitch (sl st) into the next stitch to anchor the petal.*

    • Repeat from * to * around the entire circle. You will create 8 petals in total.

    • Once you've completed the last petal, join with a slip stitch (sl st) to the first slip stitch you made at the very beginning of this round.


Final Finishing Touches

Congratulations, you've completed the crocheting! Now you just have to do the final, important steps that give your coaster a professional and durable finish.

  1. Fasten Off:

    • Chain 1 and cut your yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches (15 cm).

    • Pull the yarn tail through the loop on your hook and gently pull to secure the last stitch.

  2. Weave in All Ends:

    • Thread your yarn needle with the yarn tail from the Magic Ring and weave it into the stitches on the back of your coaster. Be sure to weave it in two different directions to prevent it from coming undone.

    • Repeat this step with the yarn tail from fastening off. Weaving in your ends securely is the most crucial part of finishing any project, as it ensures your work will last.

Your new 3D flower coaster is now ready to use! Enjoy your beautiful, handmade creation and use your new skills to create a whole set. What color will you make your next one?

Video Tutorial



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